Jim Meyer Racing Products inc.
2795 S.E. 23rd ¤ Lincoln City, OR 97367 ¤ Order (800) 824-1752 ¤ Tech (541) 994-7717 ¤ Fax (541) 994-2397

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LOWER STEERING COLUMN MODIFICATIONS
FOR ’53-54 CHEVY CARS

The general overview is that our new IFS installations require modifying the bottom of the existing column or replace it with a new ididit or Flaming River column that will connect to the new splined output shaft on the rack-and-pinion steering box. As you probably know, the bottom of the old columns have either a vibration damping “rag joint” or the worm-gear shaft coming right out of the box to the steering wheel. They won’t connect to the rack’s splined shaft and must be changed.

To modify the lower end of the shaft for the double-D U-joint to be attached to the column shaft, a ¾ double-D profile must be machined or grind it if that is all you have, so the shaft will fit into the Flaming River or Borgeson double-D U-joint. We have steering linkage kits and lower column modification kits that include a lower column bushing and lock ring or you can order a new column from us, since we are dealers for both ididit and Flaming River. If you can’t do the lower column modification, send us the shaft and we can mill it for you.

USING THE STOCK COLUMN AND SHIFTING  MECHANISM

We know that from ’39-54 Chevy cars had column shifts, however our column shift modifications shown here are for the ’53-54 Chevy cars. You may or may not be able to modify earlier GM column shifts the same way, but we hope this idea will help you see the smaller problems and give you an idea of what you could do to keep the interior column as stock as possible and still use the stock shift handle on your newer or original transmission, if this is what you are after. Otherwise, put in a new tilt-column and smile.

Since this was Mrs. Meyers personal ride, Jim wanted to keep the interior as stock as possible. It already has all stock running gear, “so let’s keep the theme”. Every column requires modifications for us, but keeping the stock shifting rod and hooking it up to the trans presented a new problem since the shifting section was right over the top of the new U-joint on the shortened shaft. This required a new Low Profile chrome moly Flaming River U-joint #FR1925 (3/4-double-D X 3/4-double-D). This joint has smaller outside diameter ends with the same size trunnion as the larger versions. Check the photos and you’ll see we had to cut half of the column tube off at the end and weld it on top of the existing tube for extra U-joint clearance below the relocated shift mechanism (above it).

 
The first thing to do while the column is still in the car is to remove the steering wheel and measure from the top of he threads down to the top of the column tube. You should have 1 15/16-inches left for the steering wheel to go back in the correct position. These are the three parts that make up the ’53-54 Chevy steering column. To remove it from the car, you’ll need to cut the steering shaft as close to the box as possible. Then the three parts can be separated. Do not cut the outer tube.
 
Find this oval hole at the lower end of the column tube and measure from the top end of the hole (as shown) toward to the top of the column, 4-inch. Next, at the 4-inch mark, cut the tube off, and then cut the remaining section in half. The upper half section will be overlapped 3/4-inch and welded to the column tube (later) where it sticks out of the firewall. Welding it to the top of the existing tube gives the smaller U-joint (underneath) the extra room. Using the Jim Meyer lower column modification kit (with Delrin bushing and set-screw lock ring), measure as shown from the bottom of the lock ring 1 ¼-inches down and cut off the shaft. Next, you can either send us the steering shaft and have us mill it or you can do it at a machine shop in your area or grind and belt-sand it if that’s all you have.  Notice, the position of the bushing and the lock ring are just below the outer firewall line on the old column tube. This worn firewall line on the column tube will give you a good idea where you should be. This could be used as a reference point as well.
 
Mill or grind the shaft to fit inside the new Flaming River Low Profile (#FR1925) chrome moly U-joint. The double-D shaft and the double-D U-joint both have two flat sides. This is why you need to mill or grind this shape at the bottom of earlier steering shafts (round shaft shown on the right).
 
Like the other U-joint at the bottom of the column, this U-joint just above the ’83-89 T-Bird power rack (3/4-36 X ¾-double-D) has stronger chrome moly steel and has the ends turned down to a smaller 1 ¼-inch diameter (then their normal U-joints), but retains the same size trunnion. With the lower end of the steering shaft modified and the bushing, lock ring and U-joint installed, the top half of the tube can be welded to the top edge of the tube that sticks out of the firewall. Jim recommends overlapping it about ¾-inch and welding it.
 
Here’s the goal. The half tube overlaps the full tube coming out of the firewall about ¾-inch and is welded. Next, the shift rod and bracket (above the half tube) is then welded onto the half tube at the points shown. By cutting the half-tube away from the column and welding it on top of the tube, it gives the extra room needed for the U-joint to rotate. This is why the smaller Low Profile U-joint was used.
 
After bead-blasting the shifting mechanism and springs at the end of the column, it can be reassembled with a spring on each side of the shifter arm in the center. Notice the rod underneath the shifting mechanism is coming out at an angle. This is the steering shaft to the rack.
 
 
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